Drag Racing Tips the Basics
What is Drag Racing?
Pre Race Prep
Staging Lanes
Burnout
Staging
The Actual Run
After The Run
WHAT IS DRAG RACING?



A drag race is an acceleration contest from a standing start between two vehicles over a measured distance. The accepted standard for that distance is a quarter-mile (1,320 feet), but sometimes it is an eighth-mile (660 feet). A drag racing event is a series of such two-vehicle, tournament-style eliminations. The losing driver in each race is eliminated, and the winning drivers progress until one driver remains.

These contests are started by means of an electronic device commonly called a Christmas Tree, because of its multicolored starting lights. On each side of the Tree are seven lights: two small amber lights at the top of the fixture, followed in descending order by three larger amber bulbs, a green bulb, and a red bulb.

Two light beams cross the starting-line area and connect to trackside photocells, which are wired to the Christmas Tree and electronic timers in the control tower. When the front tires of a vehicle break the first light beam, called the prestage beam, the pre-stage light on the Christmas Tree indicates that the racer is approximately seven inches from the starting line.

When the racer rolls forward into the stage beam, the front tires are positioned exactly on the starting line and the stage bulb is lit on the Tree, which indicates that the vehicle is ready to race. When both vehicles are fully staged, the starter will activate the Tree, and each driver will focus on the three large amber lights on his or her side of the Tree.

Depending on the type of racing, all three large amber lights will flash simultaneously, followed four-tenths of a second later by the green light (called a Pro Tree), or the three bulbs will flash consecutively five-tenths of a second apart, followed five-tenths later by the green light (called a Sportsman, or full, Tree).

Two Separate performances are monitored for each run: elapsed time and speed. Upon leaving the staging beams, each vehicle activates an elapsed-time clock, which is stopped when that vehicle reaches the finish line. The start-to-finish clocking is the vehicle's elapsed time (e.t.), which serves to measure performance. Speed is measured in a 60-foot "speed trap"that ends at the finish line. Each lane is timed independently.

The first vehicle across the finish line wins, unless, in applicable categories, it runs quicker than its dial-in or index. A racer also may be disqualified for leaving the starting line too soon, leaving the lane boundary (either by crossing the centerline, touching the guardwall or guardrail, or striking a track fixture such as the photocells), failing to stage, or failing a post-run inspection (in NHRA class racing, vehicles usually are weighed and their fuel checked after each run, and a complete engine teardown is done after an event victory).

Drivers that practice regularly become "good" drivers. However, knowing how to practice, and knowing the relationship of reaction time/elapsed time/winning/losing can help you progress faster.
Pre Race Tips



Here is a list of general things you will need before you head down to the drag strip. Note that the procedures and rules sometimes vary from one drag strip to another so if in doubt, call ahead to verify.
  1. Car
  2. 1/2 tank (possibly less) of gas
  3. Pen (to fill out your tech card)
  4. White shoe polish, paper towels, and windex (if you need to change dial in's)
  5. Proper clothes for the day's weather. It's cooler at night so bring a jacket. NHRA rules say no shorts or tank tops. Long pants and shoes are required!
  6. Sunscreen.
  7. Helmet (required by NHRA rules if your car runs 13.99 or quicker or if you have a convertible or motorcycle)
  8. Money
  9. Bug repellant
  10. Fold up chairs
  11. Ice chest (glass is a no-no)
    12.


Once you get to the drag strip, follow these easy instructions.

Staging Lanes

Burnout



You are finally at the front of the line and you are motioned into the burnout area. Follow these tips.

Staging and Launch



You've done your burnout (or more likely not), and now are motioned towards the staging area. Follow these steps for this crucial start of the race.

The Actual Run



Do not waste any runs! Try to improve your reaction time each run, regardless of whether you are tuning or checking out your vehicle. Work out your staging routine and then follow it exactly each run. I use the following procedure each run of practice and elimination's.
ROLLOUT



This is a good time to talk about "rollout". Rollout is the actual distance your car must move from the staged position until the starting circuit for the E.T. timers is activated. Obviously, the staged position is a significant factor, but the front tire diameter also has a fairly large effect. If you have smaller diameter tires, you will need to drive slightly further forward to turn on the "stage" light, and the rear portion of your smaller tire will reach the starting line quicker when you "leave". That would indicate that you would need to leave later on the light sequence to avoid redlighting. Conversely, if your front tires were larger diameter, the reverse is true, and you could leave earlier on the sequence. I took advantage of this rollout variance by switching from P205/75 to P225/75 front tires. Presto, I can now leave at the beginning of the third yellow light! Understand that actual rollout distance is unimportant, but the overall combination of staging position, rollout, and acceleration capability of your vehicle are vitally important in obtaining good and consistent R.T.'s.

A word about front tires. In my opinion, the use of the skinny race style front tires on a street vehicle is extremely dangerous, and does not provide any measurable advantage at the drag strip. These tires simply do not have the load carrying capability for a normal street vehicle, and they positively do not have the braking capability needed for an emergency stop. The slight weight loss they may provide is more than offset by the quicker ET provided by a larger diameter tire. Concerning rolling resistance supposedly reduced by such "race"tires, most are bias belted, and radials of any diameter and moderate width (75 to 80 aspect ratio) will provide as good or better rolling resistance. Radials can be inflated up to the maximum rated pressure (listed on the side of the tires) for racing, and this reduces the rolling resistance even further. An added disadvantage of small diameter front tires is that they tend to lower the front end which will always adversely effect rear wheel traction. The vehicle should set level or slightly lower in the rear for best weight transfer.
WEIGHT SHIFT OR TRANSFER



Normal acceleration tends to raise the front of the vehicle, and that slight raising of the front when combined with forward acceleration, shifts more of the vehicle weight (load) to the rear More weight on the driving tires improves the tire adhesion to the road surface, and that improves traction. The style of rear suspension - leaf spring, four link coil suspension, independent rear suspension, etc., all have some effect on the weight transfer to the rear tires. The most practical things we can do to help traction include maintaining the springs in good condition (and not using spring boosters or air shocks with conventional suspension), good shocks, and correct ride height. I will briefly discuss traction aids later. Driving style was mentioned as a factor in traction With a normal driveable street vehicle, it is very important to apply engine power in a manner that will allow the vehicle to begin to lift the front and transfer weight to the rear before the full engine power hits the rear tires. For example: If the engine is torqued up against the converter the front tends to lift (although the same amount of weight is still on the front), and when the brakes are released, the full engine torque shocks the tires loose before the car can transfer any weight to the rear. Once the tires break loose, they can not obtain enough traction to cause the front to lift more, which would add more weight to the tires. If the driver will apply power in a more constant and gradual manner, the car will begin to transfer weight to the rear before the tires break loose, and this process can be extended until the throttle is completely open. Of course, other factors, such as reaction time, must be considered, and the complete driving style selected to complement you and your vehicle. The point is that simply flooring the throttle and letting the tires spin is not the best method to obtain good traction and the optimum ET.

Anything that reduces rolling resistance (increased front tire pressure, radial tires on front, properly adjusted wheel bearings, correct front end alignment, less total weight, etc.) will help.
REACTION TIME TIPS



In an earlier part, we discussed reaction time, and indicated that it is measured from the green light switch closure until the front tires leave the starting line. That is technically correct. However, if your local track's clocks indicate a perfect light as .500, the reaction time is measured from the closing of the switch for the last yellow light until the front tires leave the starting line. If your track measures a perfect light as .000, it's timers are measuring from the green light activation until your front tires leave the starting line. Both measurements tell you the same information, and your task is to obtain the quickest and most consistent R.T. possible.

Recall that elapsed time and reaction time are totally separate entities, but are closely intertwined in drag racing. Your E.T. will stay the same on a particular run whether your R.T. is .550 or .900, while your R.T. can be .550 each run, but the E.T. may change. To win regularly in bracket racing, your E.T. must be consistent and predictable, regardless of whether it is 14 seconds or 18 seconds and your R.T. must be reasonably good on every run.

Reaction time is the result of several factors. First is how you "read" the lights - that is when you give your car the command to leave. The next consideration is where in relation to the starting line that your car begins its acceleration. Finally, the rate at which your car accelerates after it receives your "go" command is of interest. None of these is more important than the other, and all must be factored in when practicing your driving. We recommended that you always stage to the point where the "stage" light barely lights. This places your vehicle the furthest from the actual starting line, which helps E.T., but most importantly, it provides a positive line. It takes a given time for any vehicle to begin to move after you command it. Accordingly, if you stage at a different position each run, it will take a different amount of time to reach the starting line and your reaction time will vary each run. Additionally, your elapsed time will vary because your car has a different distance to travel before the starting line is reached, and this causes your car to be running at a different speed when it actually crosses the starting line.

After the Run



After you cross the last timing light, follow these tips.